Why Isfahan is half the world: exploring the magic of Iran

Iran was once a popular tourist destination for Westerners. Many people will be surprised to learn that travelers who still visit the country return safely having had a fantastic time.

Yes, there have been demonstrations and, at the government level, hostile words, but the average Iranian you will meet on your travels is warm, open, and very friendly. Iran is the birthplace of much of our culture and today it still offers some incredible cultural and personal experiences.

Yes, you will need a visa, but for most nationalities, you can obtain it at the airport upon arrival. For those traveling with a UK or US passport, the requirement is that they must make a reservation on a group tour or at least have their visa application made through one of the local tour companies. The brave can travel independently by people from countries other than the UK / US.

Iran is well served by a bus network and it is possible to travel both by train and by plane. Little English is spoken outside of Tehran and Isfahan, so hiring a guide makes perfect sense. They are relatively inexpensive. That said, taking a group tour also has a lot to offer.

Iran is an Islamic country and has a strict dress code that visitors must follow. This is particularly difficult for women who are required to have their helmet, arms and legs fully covered while in public. For men, pants and long sleeves are required. Westerners are welcome in most cities, but care must be taken in the very conservative religious cities of Qom and Mashhad.

Tehran has little to offer except the Grand Bazaar and the amazing Jewelry Museum, but this is made up for in the cities of Isfahan (also spelled Esfahan), Shiraz, and Yazd.

Shiraz and Yazd are worth a day or more and the ruins of the ancient city of Persepolis, 70 kilometers from Shiraz, is one of the most spectacular ruins in the world. Shiraz has wonderful gardens and an interesting mirrored tiled mosque. Yazd has its winding lanes, wind towers and adobe houses. This is the best place to explore Zoroastrian culture. Take a look at the impressive three-story high Amir Chakhmaq complex, with its rows of perfectly proportioned decorated niches. If you have time, the Yazd Water Museum has a very interesting display of underground water channels called quanats.

Isfahan is a relatively compact city with most of the main attractions within easy reach. In fact, it is impressive and some say it is the most beautiful city in the world. The main attractions: the Imam Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, Sheikh Lotf Alah Mosque and the entrance to the Grand Bazaar, are clustered around the huge Imam Square (Naghsh-j Jahan). Once a military parade ground, polo field, and horse racing track, the central area is now a water feature and dozens of shops line the plaza.

Construction of the Palace began in 1611. It is a good example of Islamic architecture at its peak. Its splendor comes from the seven-color mosaics that cover the dome and the beautiful calligraphic inscriptions in various places. The front portal of the mosque is 27 meters high and is flanked by two 42-meter high minarets. Together with the 52 meter high dome, the view of the mosque in the late afternoon with its tiles gleaming in the afternoon sun, is a scene you will remember for a long time.

If you find the exterior impressive, the beauty of the interior will take your breath away. Amazing tiles, plasterwork, and more calligraphy along with dramatic patterns adorn the ceiling. Standing below the center of the dome, you can experience the most amazing acoustic properties of the dome design.

On the left side of the Imam Mosque square is the majestic six-story Ali Qapu Palace. Built as a monumental entrance, it also served as the residence of the Shah.

You will need a good guide to fully understand this building, but without a doubt the highlight is the raised terrace with its 18 slender columns. The view across the square to the Shah and his guests must have been a wonderful sight. Shah Abbas I and II reigned at the height of Persian culture.

Across the square is the smaller Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, sometimes referred to as the Ladies’ Mosque because it may have been built to serve as a place of worship for the Shah’s harem. Built between 1602 and 1619 during the reign of Shah Abbas I, it is distinguished from the Imam Mosque by its pale tones and quiet harmony. Colors change during the day from cream to pink at sunset. The arabesque motifs and floral designs on the exterior panels are remarkable. The portal is an example of fine stalactite work with a rich concentration of blue and gold motifs. This honeycomb plasterwork forms small niches bracketed one above the other in geometric patterns, it is very pleasing to the eye. Once again, the interior is magnificent and the unusual design of the mihab is the best in Iran.

Flash photography is not allowed indoors, so bring a tripod for your camera.

Entrance fees apply to all of the above. Several companies offer walking tours. Check them out as they can offer good value for money. Drink water and have good walking shoes.

The Qeysarieh portal gate leads from the square directly to the Grand Bazaar. These are best visited in the mornings, while the trade is the most dynamic. The variety, the smell, the color and the sounds of the bazaar will surprise you. Cheerful shopkeepers love to display their wares. Negotiating is the way. Small items like painted one-hair miniatures and hand-printed tablecloths called qalamkar textiles are inexpensive and easy to transport, however merchants will pack and ship larger items. If you use a credit card, check the charges.

Take some time to try one of the rooftop teahouses. Sample the variety of teas while sampling a fizzy fizzy (smoking flavored tobacco through a hookah). Explore some of the shops and tea houses that have been turned into caravanserais. These are a throwback from the old Silk Road when trade was at its peak.

Other Isfahan attractions include the impressive Jamah Mosque dating from 771, the Chehelsotun Palace, and the Khaju and Si-o-Se-Pol bridges. Check the bridges in the late afternoon or early evening when they are lit up.

Money can be a problem in Iran. Very few ATMs accept Western cards. The local currency is the Rial, but the term tomans is sometimes used. A take is 10 riyals. Always ask or bring US dollars or euros instead. The best way to get local currency is to use private money exchange offices (not black market resellers). A conversion table or calculator will help you if you are serious about shopping.

Isfahan has a variety of tourist hotels ranging from hostels to the luxurious Abbasi Hotel. Compare prices to get the best prices. This hotel has a variety of different room types and rates. It has a wonderful courtyard setting and is worth checking out.

So Isfahan is “half the word”? Well, you will have to go there for yourself before you can decide.

We think it was when we went through our great Asian transcentric journey written in the book Following the Silk Road by Marco Polo.