Western Pond Turtle Care

Origin: Western United States (ponds, lakes, and swamps)

There are two subspecies:

Northwestern pond turtle (Clemmys marmorata marmorata) and

Southwestern pond turtle (Clemmys marmorata pallida)

Adult Size: Usually up to 8 inches (shell length)

Lifespan: Unknown, probably 30+ years like other pond turtles

Temperament: Not as territorial and aggressive as many other turtles. You can keep some of these turtles together as long as they have enough room to swim.

Setup: This is an aquatic species, so the enclosure should be mostly water. Your turtle will need a place to get out of the water and bask, such as a well-placed rock or rock pile, or a turtle dock found at your local pet store. Use sand or gravel to cover the bottom of the tank and decorate underwater with aquatic plants or driftwood to make your turtle feel safe.

The minimum recommended tank size for one of these turtles is 20 gallons long. Bigger is ALWAYS better. Other containers can be used, such as the large Rubbermaid containers, as long as the container can safely hold about 20 gallons or more of water. Fill the tank at least halfway. Water conditioner or dechlorinator is not necessary unless you are using extremely hard water (such as State College J tap water), in which case a water conditioner made especially for turtles should be used.

Lighting/Temperature: This is a diurnal species, which means that it is active during the day when the sun rises. The turtle’s body uses ultraviolet rays from natural sunlight to make vitamin D3 from the calcium in its diet. Fluorescent UV bulbs made especially for reptiles are available at pet stores to keep your turtle healthy. Although often passed off as a waste of money to make “the fans” happy, this light is extremely important, and if you don’t provide it (along with enough calcium), it will seriously affect your turtle’s health and quality of life .

A lamp is also needed for sunbathing. Place the light over the rocks or dirt area in your tank to create a warm basking spot. Use the proper wattage heat bulb and position the light to create a heating temperature of around 90 to 95 degrees F. Many thermometers are available to measure the temperature inside the cabinet, but remember that all stick-on and dial-type thermometers, while still useful, measure only room temperature (air temperature) and it won’t give you an accurate reading of the sunbathing spot. For sunbathing, you should choose a digital probe thermometer (available at most hardware and garden supply stores, and not as expensive as you think!). The digital probe measures the surface temperature, the temperature to which the basking rock is actually heating up, and provides adequate abdominal heat for good digestion.

An aquarium heater is a good idea. These guys do best in warm water and should be kept in water temps in the 80s F. A submersible heater is the only way to go as the tank won’t fill to the top. These tortoises are notorious for breaking their heaters, so we recommend looking for an “unbreakable” titanium or glass heater to avoid problems.

Filtration and Maintenance – Aquatic turtles are very dirty, so a good, reliable filter is important. There are many different types of filters, although none are particularly better than the others. It’s really a matter of personal preference, whether you want to go for a submersible filter like the Fluval, undergravel, powerhead, or Hydrosponge, or want an external type like the hanging waterfall type or the cartridge filter. Whichever form of filtration you choose, just remember to have LOTS of it and clean it often!

Regular tank maintenance is a must with aquatic turtles. Water gets dirty quickly, and constantly dirty water can have a very negative effect on the health of turtles. How often to change the water or clean the filter depends on how many turtles you have relative to the size of the tank, as well as how much filtration you have and how much or how often you feed them. Cleaning the tank is not much different from cleaning a fish tank. A good aquarium siphon will go a long way and is the easiest way to remove all waste and debris from the bottom of the tank. Drain as much water as you need to clean the tank. Turtles aren’t as sensitive to the byproducts of the nitrogen cycle as fish are, so you don’t have to worry about cycling or being careful with the filter, and this gives you a lot of freedom when it comes to tank cleaning. Just remember to never use soap! There are spray cleaners available at your local pet store that are safe to use around reptiles, and if you’re really worried about the tank being dirty, a little bleach should do the trick. Just be careful to rinse it well and not put your turtle back in the tank until the smell of bleach is gone.

Diet: Like most pond turtles, these guys are omnivores. This means that they will eat both meat and plant matter. Variety is the key to a healthy diet. There are many prepackaged turtle foods on the market. Some are better than others, depending on the amounts of certain ingredients like protein and phosphorous. Sticking with a high-end brand is your best bet, as proper nutrition is very important with reptiles.

Crickets, red worms and superworms are among the most popular live foods available in pet stores. Dust them with powdered supplements (both calcium and vitamins) just before feeding, or fill them 24 hours before giving them to your turtle. Other good live foods, mostly available online, include silkworms and phoenix worms. Avoid waxworms and mealworms due to their high fat content, general lack of nutrition, and difficulty digesting the mealworm shell. Remember not to feed your turtle any insects you find outside. Some can be poisonous (fireflies are deadly!) and wild bugs are likely to carry parasites (an expensive vet bill you’d rather avoid!). To add a little extra calcium to the diet, it is also recommended to float a piece of cuttlefish bone (available in the bird section of pet stores) in the water. The bone may be nibbled on occasionally by the tortoise, and as it dissolves in the water, it can also be beneficial, not only for the tortoise’s nutrition, but also for the health of its skin and shell.

Live fish can be given as an occasional snack. They are not very good nutritionally for your turtle, they can stunt their growth and they are very greasy. Think of it like going to dinner at McDonalds. A meal there probably won’t have much of an effect on your health, but it shouldn’t become a habit! Fortunately, there are some healthier, parasite-free alternatives to live fish for your turtle. Most grocery stores carry a variety of fresh seafood, which is not too expensive when purchased in small quantities. Shrimp, squid (both fillets and tentacles), tilapia, catfish, and shark fillet are popular with turtles. Stick with the “white meat” species of fish because they don’t leave the water as dirty, and be sure to feed as many varieties as possible. You’ll also find plenty of freeze-dried or frozen foods at your local pet store that your turtle will like to munch on. These are not as nutritious as fresh raw seafood, but they make great snacks and help add variety to the diet.

Letting healthy leaves (such as kale, turnip greens, mustard greens, or dandelion greens) float in the water provides your turtle with entertainment as well as a healthy snack. They will also enjoy escarole, endive, pieces of zucchini or yellow squash, cucumber, carrot, the occasional piece of apple or banana, etc. Avoid lettuce and celery, and don’t feed too much fruit. Turtles can get an upset stomach and become dehydrated when eating them. Also avoid kale, broccoli, and spinach due to their nutrient-binding qualities. You can probably find much more detailed dietary information online if you look in the right places. We recommend that you start at Melissa Kaplan’s website, www.anapsid.org. Just remember not to leave uneaten vegetables, fruits, or insects in the water for too long. Letting the food spoil makes the water dirty and can also make the turtle sick.

Health: Turtles are susceptible to the same common health problems as other reptiles. Metabolic bone disease (MBD), calcium and vitamin deficiencies or toxicities, liver and kidney disease, impaction (intestinal blockage), dehydration, fungal and bacterial infections, stress, respiratory infections, parasites, etc. Most of these ailments can be treated by changing something in your care regimen, or with the help of a qualified reptile vet, but are easily avoided because they have so much to do with diet/nutrition, temperature, and lighting. That’s why it’s so important to have the right setup from the start. A tortoise that is well cared for and lives in the right environment should live a long and healthy life with minimal problems. Another health problem with turtles is their shell. In addition to the normal shedding, the shell can sometimes become very flaky, oily, or even sticky. This usually has to do with poor water quality and/or insufficient UV exposure, and there are some helpful products available through your pet store to help keep the shell healthy.

An important side note regarding MBD and other similar issues: If your turtle and its shell seem to be growing at different rates, or if your turtle’s legs or face seem to be getting misshapen, your UV bulb may be overdue for a change or your The tortoise may not be getting enough calcium in its diet. This is a serious health problem and veterinary care should be sought immediately.